Ultimate Hipster Guide to Rome

Rome isn’t just ancient art & history, but is actually quite cool. And it’s got a bit of a hip reputation, too. (It’s a capital city, remember?) These are some of my favorite things to do in Rome, whether it’s getting a bit off-the-beaten track and visiting the outlying neighborhoods, or just diving right into to Rome’s most popular touristic places such as Campo de Fiori and Piazza Navona. Even though the city can sometimes feel a bit like a theme park, there’s still a lot to see and do here. And if you’re in the right places with the right people, you might just never want to leave!

hipsters in rome

People-watching in Rome

This is probably the easiest city in the world for people-watching. Rome is famous for all its public spaces where kids, students, families and young couples always seem to congregate. From the Spanish steps to tiny piazzas hidden between streets, if there are any sort of steps or stairs you’ll likely see someone sitting on them. Fountains are particularly popular—especially in the summer. Head to Via del Pignetto and the surrounding area where you’ll find the coolest locals — plus some great mens fashion shops, wine bars and some small live music clubs.

san lorenzo, rome

Nightlife in Rome

  • TrastevereViccolo de Cinque street between the Ponte Sisto and Ponte Garibaldi bridges is crowded and lively on the weekends. Cheap food, people drinking on the bridges, on the church steps — you’re sure to have some fun if you hang out in Trastevere. Try the Akab Club for electronic and occasional indie rock nights.
  • San Lorenzo – Just a ten minute walk down via Marsala. It’s near the University so lots of young trendy folks around. There is a club or two and plenty cheap foods. Try the pizza at Formula One!
  • Pigneto – This neighborhood (just further south from San Lorenzo) is one of thew newest hotspots for Rome locals. Wine bars and restaurants are the main fare here.
  • Madonna dei Monti – The Monti neighborhood is probably THE hipster area of Rome. There are some great mens fashion shops and cafes worth visiting during daytime, but visit the plaza at night to see the real fun. There’s a local drink shop where most people just buy a cheap beer to enjoy while sitting at the fountain.
  • Campo de Fiori - Lonely Planet describes this plaza as the place where you’re most likely to find drunk Romans. With street buskers and heaps of restaurants, it was a cool area to hang out in the evening but it still felt a bit too touristic. Better to visit this square to mark it off your “been there, done that” list, and then head over to Trastevere where all the real locals are.

Glamda - gay club in Rome

Gay Rome

Who knew Rome could be so gay-friendly?!

  • Glamda – weekly gay/straight-friendly party during the summer. It’s at an outdoor club and the music is better than what you’d usually get at a gay club night. Drinks are kind of expensive, but the atmosphere is fun.
  • Qube Disco - Friday nights at this huge club is the weekly gay party.
  • Gay street – There’s an entire street of gay bars and clubs. Coming Out is a popular one. I didn’t get the chance to visit and heard mixed reviews about the bar, but the street is a quick and easy way to find some gay nightlife in Rome.

filetti di baccala - roman food

Eating out in Rome

  • Take a food tour — I went on a 3-hour walking tour through Testaccio—a great little neighborhood south of the Colosseum. It was one of the best food tours I’ve had and was the best way to get introduced to the city that loves to eat!
  • Cantina & Cucina — Full of hipsters, no joke. Vegetarian-friendly menu.
  • Formula One pizza in San Lorenzo — best pizza in Rome? I thought so! Plus the whole place was packed full of students at nearly midnight.
  • 0km market near the Roman forum — Get lunch at one of the stands! There are hot meals in the back corner, otherwise cheese and fruit sampling throughout.
  • Testaccio food market — One of Rome’s oldest markets, this place is so spectacularly hyper-local with some of Rome’s oldest Italians :)
  • Water is everywhere. And thank god for it, because it is HOT. There’s even an app for finding the nearest free water spout!
  • Fileta di Bacala — near Campo de Fiori, grab a fileta di bacala (fried cod fish) for just 4.50. You’ll see the giant line/queue outside or else just walk in and go straight to the back near the kitchen and ask the woman standing over the giant vat of boiling oil for some fried fish!

Gelato in Rome

  • Learn to tell the difference (3 steps) – Best way to do this is by asking people (or take the famous Testaccio tour)
  • Gelateria de Teatro – Arguably one of Rome’s best gelatos. They’ve even got some unique flavors like “chocolate with red wine.”
  • Sora Mirella la Grattachecca – Tired of gelato? Get shaved ice (a sno cone) at this Roman institution. It’s at one end of the Ponte Cestio bridge. The shaved ice comes with a bit of fruit on top and the ice is made fresh. So refreshing in the summer!

rome's metro/subway

Public Transportation in Rome

  • Easy to use, though maybe doesn’t run on time so be warned you might have to wait!
  • Bus 64 is useful if you’re staying near Termini – it’ll hit the major destinations and save you a lot of time
  • Buy a metro card. It gets hot and you won’t want to be outside for long periods of time.

inside the pantheon

Sightseeing in Rome

  • Take a walking tour through Rome with Eating Italy Food Tours. I took the tour on my first day visiting Rome and it was without a doubt one of the best things I did in the city. It was a brilliant introduction to Rome and I highly recommend it! View their website and just try not to get hungry—I dare you!
  • When in Rome tour of the Vatican Museum
  • St Peters is amazing, breathtaking, a million other words impossible to describe its massive beauty. (And I mean massive, the building is gigantic). I didn’t take a tour but instead wandered around myself, slowly taking it all in. The highlights are the Pieta & Bernini’s Baldacchino.
  • The Pantheon is a must-see. It’s free and the dome is amazing on the inside.
  • Protestant Cemetery with John Keats’ grave in Testaccio. There’s also a Keats/Shelly Memorial near the Trevi Fountain (closed Sundays, though)

Alternative Rome Travel Tips

Cool Souvenirs in Rome

  • Trast Clothing T-shirts and other silly souvenirs, but not as cheesy as the other stuff you’ll find in Rome
  • Sexy priests calendar — For some reason, most of the souvenir shops enjoy showcasing oxymoronic things, such as sexy Vatican priests. Also: everywhere in Italy they seem to love to put Michaelengelo’s David’s genitalia on just about everything from magnets & boxer shorts to kitchen aprons
  • Don’t take the ancient artifacts!
  • Print on t-shirts (see to the right)
  • Food! Trust me on this, go to Volpetti (a gourmet food shop) and sample the fine cheeses and balsamic vinegars until you find just what you didn’t know you ever needed – it’s so worth it and it’s my absolute favorite souvenir from Rome!

Useful Resources & Travel Tips

  • Heart Rome — Blog by my friend Maria which includes some great foodie tips
  • Browsing Rome An insider’s look into life as a Roman
  • Use Trenitalia.com for buying train tickets…which is often cheaper if you buy online!
  • The Yellow Guide This hostel near the train station provides a customized map of Rome (which is also available online!) and had some amazing travel tips that I’ve used in the past

trastevere - hipster rome

11 total comments on this postSubmit yours
  1. Thanks for taking the time to post this! My partner and I are heading to Rome for a few days on our honeymoon and we are definitely going to check out a few of the spots you mentioned.

    • Glad to hear it Aaron. Hope you enjoy Rome – it’s one of my favorite cities!

  2. Interesting list, particularly with the cool things to do. As I am not all that cool, I still love sitting around places like the campo and watching the older Italian couples, all posh, walking slowing hand in hand, all decked out in leather shoes and bags, and big sunglasses. My favorite part of Rome!

  3. Hi, the real name of “filetto di baccalà” is Dar Filettaro. Its address is Largo dei Librari, 88. Just follow via dei Giubbonari from Campo de Fiori and you’ll find it on the left.

    • Great – thank you so much for the extra information. The fish is so so so good there!

  4. Hey Penny,

    Here’s how to find Filetto di Baccala from Campo dei Fiori, from my experience (I don’t work for Adam, I just really love Rome and want everyone to have the best possible experience there.). Stand back to back with the statue in the middle of the piazza (he’s facing the Vatican) and head toward the movie theater ahead of you. Continue on Via Dei Giubbonari, to your right, as you exit the square. When you see a tobacco store (a black sign marked with a white capital “T”) on your right, turn left into the tiny piazza of Largo dei Librari (there may or may not be a sign announcing it, but at the back you can see the facade of a church). Filetto is on the right of the square. Cheers!

    • Sydney Thanks a million. Awesome directions. I’ve been in Rome 5 times but never seen this place. I’m not surprised though, I always discover something new there.

  5. Hi Adam Can you tell me EXACTLY where is the Filetti di Baccala? Campo di Fiori is a very generic directional description. Do you have a street name?

  6. I LOVE that you included “We are against war and tourist menu.” I lived in Rome as a study abroad student and again this past year while working for Bus2alps. I am obsessed with Trastevere, but I will never understand that sign. Are they against a tourist menu? Or are the against war and also have a tourist menu? Always a good laugh when walking by.

    • ahaha.. I’m Italian, but never spotted that sign before.
      Well, maybe they litterally translated into English the italian word which stands for “meal for tourists”…
      This is actually one of the most profitable travel scams you may find in Italy.
      Maybe it’s okay for a tourist to pay 25-35 euros for 1 pizza + beer + french fries.
      For italians, it’s not.

    • The sign is still there :-) it is an ironical sentence that should sound: “the two things we hate more are war and fake meals that too many restaurants sell as typical italian food”. You must think that some dishes, sold as “typical italian”, do not exist in our real cuisine. They reflect the IDEA that tourist have about italian food but they are not real.

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